A NEW YEARS "2007" REPORT FROM JAMILAH*
"JamStar is one of the 12 most adventurous people in the world for 2007
according to National Geographic Society's Adventure Magazine."
I'm now at Mavericks!
"Cold Water Rules"
New Shots soon!
Peahi.............
We Launched the boat about 6:30 am,
The light was just coming up over the dark crests of
the Maui mountains. As we approached Peahi, the
golden light.
There was no one there yet to tow me in so I jumped
off the boat in to the empty Turquoise green water. I
decided to train. I swam about 500 yards in to the
mystical Peahi impact zone. The buoys were calling
for huge waves yet to me it seemed small. I dove to
the bottom and realized at once the its not that deep
on the inside. I could almost touch the dark murky
reef. The a epic florescent rainbow cast down from
the sky. Sets started coming in and I flew over the
backs of waves doing the butter fly stoke. It was
really intense, the power of the water, almost eerie.
I had to do all I could just to block out the boat
driver fear. He was so shocked I swam into the line
up he almost had a heart attract.
For me it was basic training. If you want to surf a
wave you need to be able to swim it. I was having too
much fun Diving and swimming, I channeled all the
confidence from the deeps of the Incredible pacific.
The rainbow got brighter and brighter and a big white
water wave came right to me. I swam for it and body
surfed under the white water. It was so amazing, I
could see the layers of water. Bright white bubbly and
the dark green smooth, So beautiful.
The waves I caught that day we OK, nothing compared to
my mystical morning were I final got to accomplish a
life long dream of Body surfing Peahi!!
My first two waves, pulled in by Gregorio, a top big
wave rider from Brazil, I kind of had the wildest whip
outs ever. I was using a technique Kaleo taught me
where you hold on the rope as long as you can and then
fling your wait across the face like a sling shot. So
funny, The guys were like,"Why is she going so fast."
To add to the shock factor I choose not to where a
life vest. I had learned in my Tow Class, by law you
don't have to, so I felt it would be good taring to go
with out. I slung my self so fast, maybe 30 miles a
hour streamed down the face, and wow, I slammed so
hard. Georgio picked me up,"Sorry"
I said. He immediately told me,"Your board is too
small,four fin do not work when it so choppy."
So number two, I did the same technique where you go
as fast as you can and sling your wait.
Down I went fast as lighting, almost to the bottom...
The Slam!!
I am covered with bruises, I bounced along the face
like a balled up rag doll.
Georgi come up and says," You have to let go early,
you are going to fast for that small board and its so
Choppy."
"oh"
I had no idea, I was only doing what I was trained to
do.
The next wave came. I did exactly what he said. I
let go right at the peak and glided down the face so
perfect. It feel so amazing and smooth.
Then just as if God was designing the most horrific
traing course:
The guy who went on the previous wave crashed and him,
the jet ski with his partner and the rope all lay
right in my path.
It was crazy! I saw the Jet ski one the right and the
Guy on the left about 20 feet apart. Stretched out in
between them was the bright yellow rope right in my
path.
I thought" Is that the rope?"
"Yes it is"
I was so determined to make it I used all my momentum
to hit a chop and launch over it.
After flying in the air I landed safely and did a huge
cut back into the bowl!
With no life vest on I continued to pump and turn
until I made it to the channel.
Thank GOD
My next one was so easy after I learned the right
approach. Its crazy how so many people can teach you
so many things and yet when it comes down to it, until
you are experiencing it for you self, you really know
nothing.
God Bless you all!!
Happy new year, Pray for BIG WAVES!!
Happy new Year!
Love JAM*
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